Om on the Ganga

So, after a couple of days of recovering from the Vipassana retreat, a friend and I travel by jeep from Dehradun to Rishikesh. We are both tired of being crammed into small places so buy two seats a piece in an otherwise overloaded jeep to spoil ourselves for this 45 minute journey down the mountain. We sit in the back facing each other, holding on tight and watching as Dehradun fades in the distance.

Rishikesh is probably one of my favorite places in India. Remember that the last time I was here I stayed at Parmarth Niketan Ashram for the 7 day yoga festival. This time I had a chance to really get familiar with all that Rishikesh has to offer.

We decide to stay at a place that Andrea stayed on her last visit. She bragged about how good the food was and we couldn't wait to have something different to eat after ten days of bland ashram food. The Swiss Cottages are set up on the side of the mountain with an incredible view of the Ganges River. The canteen has a great selection of western and Indian food along with a really tasty bakery with mouth-watering pastries. Andrea, being from Germany, couldn't wait to bite into another one of their sweet rolls. But I go more for the muffins and cookies. They have a really nice brown bread roll ( that's what they call wheat here!) and their veggie burger is the best in India so far! It was nice to taste something different.

We realize that this is the last chance the both of us will have to swim in the Ganga so the next morning we put our bikinis on and head down to find a hidden beach where we are told we can actually expose our bodies, something very uncommon, especially in Northern India. Lucy, one of our fellow Vipassana mates, told us about a beach up north of town.

As we walk down a beautiful tree-lined road on the bank of the Ganges, we pass many monkeys, small and large, harmless and uninterested in us, unlike others I've encountered. A couple of westerners turned Indian bikers offer directions and a ride. We decline, the ride I mean. We take snaps of others meditating down on huge rocks beside the river from the road above. Then we find a trail that leads downward and follow it onto the sandy shoreline.

There are only a few others, as Lucy said there would be, who share this relatively secluded area with us, oh except the dozen or so men on the roof of a building on the opposite side of the river doing construction. We find a place to leave our things and step into the freezing water. OMG! I am not kidding when I say c-c-c-cold! Andrea plunges in first and then encourages me to follow. Actually, she lies and says it's not as cold once you are in. I last about 30 seconds the first time and have to get out before hypothermia sets in. It is amazing to be submerged in this healing river though. Once we are both in we laugh out loud believing that all of our sins are being washed away.

We lie on the shore and watch rafters drifting by. We climb on enormous boulders and see the shoreline unfold around winding bends of sparking white sand. There's silver in the sand here like I've never seen before. It shines in the sun as it runs between my toes and fingers. The sun is intense and our senses are incredibly alive after ten days of silent self-observation.

We leave before sunset to catch the 6pm Aarti on the Ganga at the Parmarth Ashram. Andrea missed it last time she was here so we make sure to get there right on time. It isn't as full as when the festival was here but still the music rings in our ears blissfully. We sing and pass the Shiva fire that extinguishes impurity. We have an incredible dinner in a small cafe where Andrea had eaten previously. We sit on the floor and listen to old Enigma tunes and I eat the biggest tofu sizzler I have ever seen. We were going to eat hail to the Queen, some outrageous chocolate dessert, but decide on banana pancakes instead.

What a day. Perfect and complete. Getting close to the end of my journey with thoughts of my Dad. Time to go home soon. I love India and am torn away from her loving arms, her surreal backdrops, her unique scents, her sometimes absurd scenes, back to reality.

I know I will return. I haven't seen the Taj Mahal!

Love & blessings!
Lynne