Anandashram, Kerala

When we arrived at Anandashram it just happened to be early morning, about 7:30am, and breakfast was being served. We were invited to leave our bags at the front gate and partake. I was leery about leaving my belongings but, like it says on the website, no matter what time you arrive, the devotees will make sure you are fed. A beautiful angel of a woman was walking down the hill from the main temple and came right up to me. She asked if I was coming to breakfast and offered to show me the way. She led me to the hall where we removed our shoes and washed our hands. We entered the women's line and were given a metal plate, some kind of grain mixture, and a vegetable concoction. She offered me buttermilk, which I refused, but instead had some really nice chai tea. This was my first chai since I got sick in Delhi. The food here is eaten with the fingers, traditional Indian style, explaining the handwashing. The food was delicious.

Terra, from New Mexico, told me all about the Ashram and the schedule of events that happen each day. The whole structure is built around chanting "Ram" or God. Papa Ramdas, as he is known here, led an incredible life searching over India as a Sadu, chanting only the name of God. The Ashram has two small Samadhi halls, one for Swami Ramdas and the other for Mother Krishnabai, also known as Mata-ji. These halls are used for Samadhi rounds, 30 minute sessions alternating men and women, chanting "Om Sri Ram Jai Ram Jai Jai Ram." It begins at 6am and goes nonstop until 6pm. There is also a main Temple where both they both lived at one time but is now more of a place to worship. You can visit Mata-ji's bedroom to meditate or pray. It appears to be left untouched after her death in 1989. Terra and her husband Mark, both unbelievable musicians, have been coming here every year for over a decade. Terra's eyes hold a mysterious but tender and loving gaze that tells you she can totally be trusted. She guided me later on that day through several of the daily rituals.

The Ashram was founded in 1931 in this small town of Kanhangad in North Kerala to spread the message to mankind that both of their lives represented. That message is in part that "Human life has a great purpose behind it. It is not given to be lived out in ignorance of the divine source from which it springs. When the source is known, it flows like a sparkling stream imbued with immortal joy and peace." Their life and teaching serve as a beacon to humanity. Their vision was universal and their lives were devoted to service of humanity. That is so apparent here as they serve hundrends of school children free meals each day, as well as many of the poor from the surrounding communities. The chanting fills the day with a peace unknown to our busy, hectic, non-stop lives. Here the pace is slow but steady and complete. The meals are simple so as not to distract the mind from God. The people are friendly and helpful, giving support openly and graciously. The Swami who now takes the place of Papa and Mata-ji is also friendly and accessible, a sort of priest figure with a sense of lightness and humor.

One day, during what was supposed to be a time when the Swami gives a talk, about 20 blind teenage boys were visiting and took this time to sing for us. Their musical talent was incredible as they used only a tuning device and their voices to create a sound which I can't even explain. It actually sounded more African to my untrained ears. The woman who runs the boys' school spoke after the performance and told us that the boys were being trained not only in music to teach but also in mathematics and were doing graduate work for higher degrees. I loved observing them as they all watched out for each other, holding the next boy's arm in total trust. I could tell that they were a very tight group of young men and so very blessed to have this tiny place of refuge. Blindness in India is very prevalent. In Ram Dass' documentary, Fierce Grace, Dr. Larry Brilliant tells the story of the Seva Foundation which raises money to end unnecessary blindness in India. They provide operations costing about $500 each that give people sight, sometimes for the first time in their lives. (Read more at: www.pacificsun.com/doctor.html )

I purchased and was given a couple of the chant books used here at the ashram so I can try to keep up with all of the singing each day. There are many beautiful Indian woman here as well. I made friends with one, Kamela, a lawyer who lives a few hours away and frequents the ashram. She is suffering from chronic bronchitis but manages to attend and sing for many of the chanting sessions. It seems that almost every woman here plays the harmonium and several men play the tablas, including Terra's husband Mark, who has been studying tabla drums in India for 10 years off and on. He is also an amazing singer, leading sessions of chanting that leave me feeling mesmerized.

One morning I unintentionally walked in on a flower-making ritual in the main hall and was invited to observe when I offered to help. I could see why after just a few minutes. The women sit on the floor in a circle with metal bowls containing different kinds of flowers grown and picked right here at the ashram. They use string to keep the stems together and begin with one or two center flowers and then just keep layering them outwards until they have an incredible display to offer to as prashad. When I try to sniff the flowers I am told in broken English that smelling them takes away from the essence which should be saved for God.

Inside the main temple there are two throne-like chairs with paper cutouts of the gurus placed as if they were sitting there and looking you right in the eyes. There is another small room which appears to hold a coffin and people come each day to bow and touch the feet of the gurus. We didn't get any pics here but you can see the ashram on the website: www.anandashram.org. I will definitely return here on my next visit as I feel like family just from visiting a few days.

Hare Om,
Lynne